How Do You Store a Camper in the Winter? Step-by-Step Guide

Proper camper storage in winter protects plumbing, batteries, and seals from freeze damage. This guide walks through winterization, moisture control, and storage tips to keep your rig ready for spring.

Storing a camper properly for the winter isn’t just a seasonal chore, it’s a vital step in protecting one of your biggest recreational investments. As temperatures drop and campgrounds begin to close, taking the time to winterize your camper correctly can mean the difference between a smooth spring start and expensive spring repairs.

Cold weather introduces several risks: frozen plumbing, cracked seals, dead batteries, pest infestations, mildew, and UV damage. These problems don’t always appear right away, they build up quietly over the winter months if preventive steps aren’t taken.

Effective winter storage goes beyond throwing a cover over the roof or parking in a gravel lot. It requires a comprehensive plan: choosing the right storage environment, cleaning and inspecting your RV, winterizing water and electrical systems, managing moisture, and keeping pests out.

Winter Camper Storage: Quick Overview

Winter storage keeps your rig safe when roads get icy and campgrounds close. The process starts with choosing indoor, covered, or outdoor storage based on climate and budget.

It continues with cleaning, inspection, and a few protective steps for systems that do not like freezing. Your location matters because snow load, humidity, and temperature swings change the plan. A little structure now saves money and time later.

Indoor vs. Covered vs. Outdoor Storage Options

Not all camper storage is created equal, and choosing the right environment plays a big role in how well your camper weathers the off-season. Here’s how the three primary options compare:

Measure	Indoor Storage	Covered Storage	Outdoor Storage
Protection from Weather	Complete protection from rain, snow, hail, wind, and UV rays; stable indoor environment.	Roof and partial side protection; blocks direct sun, rain, and snow, but open sides expose unit to wind and humidity.	Fully exposed to all weather conditions; relies on covers and owner prep for protection.
Temperature & Climate Control	Often climate-controlled; stable temperature reduces condensation and mold risk.	No climate control; subject to external temperature swings but with less direct sun exposure.	No climate control; significant temperature fluctuations, higher condensation and freeze risk.
Security Level	Highest — typically enclosed buildings with controlled access, cameras, and sometimes on-site staff.	Moderate — gated or fenced facilities with some monitoring, but vehicles remain partially visible.	Lowest — fenced lots may have surveillance, but rigs are fully exposed and more accessible.
Risk of UV & Moisture Damage	Minimal; finishes, seals, and roofs are preserved long-term.	Moderate; roof and top seals are shielded but sides and undercarriage remain exposed.	High; constant UV exposure can fade paint, crack seals, and increase roof wear; moisture intrusion more likely.
Suitability for Vehicle Value	Best for high-end Class A motorhomes, fifth wheels, or newer RVs worth preserving.	Good choice for mid-range RVs and campers; balances cost with decent protection.	Best for budget trailers, older rigs, or owners focused on affordability over maximum protection.
Ideal Climate Match	Cold winters, hot sunny regions, coastal/humid environments where corrosion is a concern.	Moderate climates with seasonal shifts but less extreme weather.	Mild climates or regions where land is cheap and storage cost is the main factor.
Availability	Limited — fewer facilities offer true indoor bays for RVs due to size.	More widely available than indoor but still less common in urban areas.	Most common — almost every storage facility offers outdoor spaces.
Pros	Climate control, superior security, no snow load, preserves long-term value.	Shields from UV, rain, and snow; affordable compromise with reasonable protection.	Cheapest and easiest to find; flexible contracts; accommodates large fleets.
Cons	High monthly cost, limited spaces, not available everywhere.	Still exposed to humidity and temperature swings; moderate theft risk.	Full exposure to elements; higher risk of UV and moisture damage; more prep work required.

How Climate and Location Change Your Prep

Where you live changes how you winterize your camper. There’s no one-size-fits-all checklist, your prep needs to reflect your local weather patterns and risks.

Cold climates (e.g., Midwest, Northeast) require full winterization of the plumbing system, moisture control, and possibly indoor or heated storage to avoid frozen components.
Wet or coastal regions (e.g., Pacific Northwest, Southeast) demand breathable covers, rust prevention, and extra attention to seals and roof caulking.
High-snowfall areas need regular snow removal from the roof and strong roof sealing to avoid pooling and ice damming.
Mild climates (e.g., Southwest) may skip antifreeze in the lines but still require pest control, battery maintenance, and UV protection.

Pre-Storage Prep: Clean, Inspect, Protect

A clean camper stores better and reveals issues before they grow. Thorough preparation not only prevents damage but also helps control the overall cost of camper storage in winter, which can rise due to repairs, pest issues, or weather-related deterioration. Remove all food and soft goods that attract pests or absorb moisture. Finish with photos of conditions for records and insurance.

Deep Clean Interior and Remove All Food and Perishables

A clean interior is your first line of defense against rodents, mold, and musty odors.

Empty the fridge, pantry, and cabinets. Wipe down all food storage areas with a mild cleaner.
Remove all perishables, including soaps, candles, and cleaning fluids that could melt, spoil, or attract pests.
Vacuum upholstery and floors to eliminate crumbs and spills.
Leave cabinet doors cracked open slightly (if safe to do so) to encourage airflow.
Empty all trash bins, and make sure drains are dry and clean.

Exterior Wash, Wax, and Roof Inspection for Cracks and Seals

Protecting the outer shell of your camper reduces the risk of damage during winter storms and makes your unit easier to inspect in spring.

Wash the entire exterior using RV-safe soap and soft brushes to avoid damage.
Wax all painted or gelcoat surfaces to add a UV- and moisture-resistant barrier.
Inspect the roof closely, especially around vents, skylights, and AC units.
Reseal any cracks or aging joints using the correct sealant for your roof type (rubber, fiberglass, aluminum, etc.).
Photograph your rig from multiple angles for insurance and documentation.

Pest Prevention: Entry Points, Deterrents, and Traps

Rodents can squeeze into holes as small as a quarter. Once inside, they chew wires, ruin fabrics, and leave contamination behind. Stopping them before they enter is far easier than removing them later.

Seal every gap and penetration, especially around plumbing, wiring, and door frames.
Add mesh screens over vents, drain pipes, and exterior appliance access panels.
Avoid food-scented cleaning products that attract rodents.
Place rodent repellents or traps in strategic, safe locations, especially under the sink and near electrical access points.
Store soft goods (like towels, blankets, or sleeping bags) in sealed plastic or vacuum bags.

Winterize Water and Plumbing Systems

Freezing water expands and breaks fittings, valves, and lines. A proper winterization prevents costly repairs and keeps the system clean. Work methodically from tanks to fixtures and follow your owner’s manual. Label valves and document the steps you complete. If in doubt, hire a trusted RV technician to verify your work.

Step 1: Drain Fresh, Gray, and Black Water Tanks

Start by completely emptying all your tanks, this reduces weight, prevents odors, and removes the risk of residual water freezing in the system.

Visit an approved RV dump station to drain your freshwater, graywater, and blackwater tanks.
Open each valve fully and let it drain until completely empty.
Flush the black and gray tanks with water until clear, using built-in flush systems or hose attachments.
Close all valves after draining to avoid bugs, pests, or backflow.
Use a tank treatment or deodorizer if storing for extended months.
Check low points in the system, water can collect here and freeze if not drained.

Step 2: Bypass the Water Heater and Add Antifreeze

Once the tanks are empty, protect your plumbing lines by pushing RV-safe antifreeze through the system. Start by bypassing the water heater to avoid wasting antifreeze in the tank.

Set the water heater to “bypass mode.” This keeps antifreeze from entering the heater, which should remain empty and drained.
Use a hand pump or onboard winterization kit to introduce non-toxic RV antifreeze into the system.
Open one faucet at a time (cold and hot) until pink fluid flows out, then close it. Don’t forget outdoor showers or secondary sinks.
Flush the toilet to pull antifreeze through its seals and valves.
Add antifreeze to the city water inlet and exterior sprayers if equipped.
Label the panel or faucet with a reminder that the system contains antifreeze.

Step 3: Protect Traps, Toilets, and Low-Point Drains

Even after flushing antifreeze, some water can linger in traps or low points. Don’t skip these final protection steps.

Pour 1–2 cups of RV antifreeze into every sink, shower, and toilet drain. This coats the traps and keeps them from freezing.
Hold the toilet flush pedal down to allow antifreeze to flow through internal valves and seal rings.
Open low-point drains on both the cold and hot lines and drain remaining water. Once dry, close them and add antifreeze if required.
Check outside shower heads, ice makers, or washer/dryer hookups if your RV has them, all need antifreeze coverage too.

Electrical, Batteries, and Power Management

Electronics and batteries can also suffer during long, cold storage. Freezing temps and parasitic power drains can kill batteries, cause corrosion, or damage wires.

A smart electrical plan helps ensure your systems fire up smoothly in spring and keeps your camper secure and safe while it’s parked.

Step 1: Charge, Disconnect, or Maintain the Battery

Batteries lose power in cold weather, especially if left unattended. Here’s how to protect them:

Fully charge all house and chassis batteries before storage.
Clean the terminals with a mix of baking soda and water to remove corrosion.
Choose one of the following: Leave connected with a smart tender or solar trickle charger to maintain voltage, or, Disconnect and remove batteries entirely and store them in a cool, dry space (not on concrete).
If using flooded lead-acid batteries, top off water levels with distilled water before storage.
Label all cables for faster reinstallation in spring.

Step 2: Generator Storage and Monthly Exercise

If your camper has an onboard generator, storing it incorrectly can lead to gummed-up carburetors, fuel issues, or difficult spring starts.

Change the oil and oil filter before putting it into long-term storage.
Treat the fuel with a stabilizer and run the generator for 15–20 minutes under load to circulate treated fuel.
Consider running the carburetor dry if the manufacturer recommends it.
Plan to exercise the generator once per month through winter to keep seals lubricated and battery charging circuits active.
Log each run and check ventilation is clear during use.

Step 3: Shore Power and Parasitic Draw Prevention

If you’re storing in a place where you can stay plugged into shore power, you’ll want to manage electrical flow carefully.

Use a surge protector or EMS (electrical management system) at the pedestal for safety.
Switch off all unnecessary breakers and unplug devices that consume power in standby (like TVs, clocks, microwave displays).
If not plugged in, install a battery disconnect switch or parasitic draw controller to prevent slow battery drain.
Check all cords, plugs, and outlets for signs of heat damage or corrosion. Replace damaged components immediately.

Tires, Leveling, and Weight Distribution

A level camper stores better and protects its structure and systems. Tires need proper pressure, UV protection, and relief from long static loads. Stabilizers prevent rocking but should not lift the frame unless rated to do so. Think of your storage setup as a long campsite with more care. A few minutes here prevents flat spots and stress cracks.

Level the Camper to Protect Frame and Roof

Before you deploy stabilizers, it’s essential to ensure your camper is sitting level, side to side and front to back.

Use a firm, well-drained surface such as gravel, asphalt, or concrete. Avoid soft dirt or grass which may shift during freeze-thaw cycles.
Check for level at multiple interior spots, don’t rely only on the entryway. Floors may tilt slightly even if the doorway looks fine.
Small tilts can cause water to pool on the roof, weakening seals and potentially leading to leaks or sagging.
Once level, lower the stabilizers gently to eliminate movement. Remember: stabilizers are not jacks and should never lift the frame unless rated to support full weight.
Recheck level after the first major thaw or rain to make sure ground settling hasn’t thrown things off.

Tire Pressure, UV Protection, and Movement

Your tires bear the weight of your entire rig, even when stationary. Cold weather, sun exposure, and sitting in one position too long can all shorten tire life or cause failures.

Inflate tires to the manufacturer’s recommended storage PSI, this is usually slightly higher than travel PSI to account for temperature drops.
Use UV-blocking tire covers to protect sidewalls from sun damage, especially in uncovered or partially covered storage.
Move the camper slightly every few weeks if possible to prevent flat spots from forming at the contact patch.
Park on clean wood boards or leveling pads to insulate tires from cold concrete or moist ground.
Inspect sidewalls for cracks, bulges, or signs of weathering during each visit.

Should You Use Jack Stands or Leave Weight on Tires?

The debate over whether to use jack stands depends on your rig and your storage surface.

Jack stands can relieve pressure from tires and suspension if your RV’s frame is designed to support its full weight on fixed points.
If you choose to lift, use load-rated stands placed on solid, non-shifting ground (not dirt or loose gravel).
Never lift with stabilizers, which are meant only to minimize rocking and vibrations, not support the full load.
For shorter winter seasons (2–4 months), most campers store safely on their tires if properly inflated and covered.
Always check your RV’s manual or chassis documentation to see what’s recommended for your make and model.

Interior Protection and Moisture Control

Moisture is the enemy of fabrics, wood, and electronics in a closed space. Airflow, absorption, and cleanliness work together to prevent mildew. Prepare the fridge, soft goods, and storage areas with care. A few simple tools keep humidity in check. Your nose will thank you in spring.

Ventilation, Desiccants, and Mildew Prevention

Balance airflow and humidity control by:

Cracking roof vents using vent covers or bug screens to allow passive airflow.
Placing moisture absorbers (like DampRid, silica gel, or baking soda) in closets, cabinets, and under beds.
Avoiding total seal-up, open a few interior doors and drawers for circulation.
During monthly checks, wipe down any damp surfaces or condensation that builds on windows or walls.

Preventing that musty smell starts with keeping air moving and humidity under control. This is especially crucial in humid climates or RVs stored under tarps.

Fridge/Freezer: Defrost and Prop Door Open

Left closed, even a clean fridge becomes a mold trap.

Fully defrost and dry the fridge and freezer compartments.
Wipe all surfaces with a mild cleaning solution like vinegar or diluted bleach.
Prop the doors open using towels or spacers. Never leave them shut.
Place an odor absorber like baking soda or charcoal inside.

Leave the unit unplugged during storage to prevent energy use and premature wear.

Soft Goods, Mattresses, and Upholstery Care

Textiles are prone to moisture damage and mildew. Clean and store them properly:

Vacuum and spot-clean all upholstery using RV-safe cleaners.
Remove soft goods like pillows, linens, and curtains, or store them in breathable fabric bags, not plastic.
Elevate mattresses slightly using foam blocks or spacers to allow airflow underneath.
Use moisture barriers beneath beds and under-seat storage areas.
Relocate electronics, batteries, and valuables to a climate-stable indoor space.

A clean interior reactivates more quickly in spring, without lingering odors, warped panels, or damaged cushions.

Exterior Covers, Awnings, and Seals

The outside of your camper faces UV, wind, and precipitation all winter. Choose protection that allows moisture to escape while blocking sun and debris. Retract awnings, secure slide toppers, and support snow management. A little attention to seals now prevents leaks later. Always follow your roof and fabric maker’s care instructions.

When to Use Breathable RV Covers (and When Not To)

Breathable RV covers help moisture escape while blocking sun, dirt, and UV rays. They’re ideal in dry or moderate climates, where airflow prevents trapped humidity from becoming mildew.

Choose breathable covers if you’re storing in the Southwest, Rockies, or inland areas.
In coastal or rainy areas, opt for high-quality waterproof covers with built-in vents and taped seams.
Fit snugly to avoid wind flap. Pad sharp areas like ladder tips or solar brackets to prevent tears.
Inspect after storms to check for movement, sagging, or worn areas.

A breathable, well-secured cover helps your rig stay dry and damage-free, especially when combined with internal airflow.

When not to use them: In coastal or consistently rainy environments, breathable covers may not provide enough protection. Instead, a high-quality waterproof cover with built-in vents and taped seams is a safer option, as it prevents water penetration while still allowing air circulation.

Awnings Retraction, Slide Toppers, and Slide Seal Care

Wind and snow are enemies of extended awnings and poorly maintained slide toppers.

Retract all awnings fully and lock them down using manufacturer-approved straps or mechanisms.
Clean the fabric to remove dirt and prevent mold stains.
Brush off slide toppers and check for debris, sagging, or poor tension. Tighten or retract based on your owner’s manual.

Slide-out seals also need care:

Inspect seals around each slide for cracks or stiffness.
Clean and condition seals with a rubber-safe lubricant to maintain flexibility.
Remove trapped debris like pine needles and leaves that can block drainage or hold moisture.

Proper care here stops leaks, rust, and warped slide components over the winter.

Windows, Vents, and Weatherstripping Checks

Air and water both find their way in through failed seals. Do a complete pre-storage check of:

Window seals and gaskets: look for gaps, dried-out rubber, or sections pulling away from the frame.
Weatherstripping: apply a silicone-based protectant to keep it flexible and tight.
Vents and skylights: confirm lids close firmly and gaskets seal evenly.
Plastic vent lids: replace brittle or cracked ones to prevent snow or ice from breaking them mid-winter.

Taking an hour for these checks avoids weeks of damage and costly repairs later.

Security and Storage Logistics

Security is part of winter peace of mind. The best plan combines a good location with a few effective devices. Documentation strengthens any insurance claim if the unexpected happens. Read facility rules so you stay in good standing. A little paperwork now avoids headaches later.

Choosing a Storage Location and Insurance Considerations

Where you park your camper affects risk, access, and your insurance coverage.

Look for gated, well-lit facilities with cameras, clear signage, and monitored entry points.
Check drainage as your pad shouldn’t become a puddle during melts or heavy rain.
Verify your insurance policy covers storage periods and off-site locations.
Document everything and take time-stamped photos and create a basic inventory of what’s inside.

Keeping records and asking a few questions now helps you sleep better all winter.

Anti-Theft Devices, Cameras, and Documentation

Theft deterrents don’t have to be expensive to be effective, they just need to be visible and consistent.

Wheel locks and hitch locks prevent drive-offs and trailer theft.
Hidden GPS trackers can aid recovery in the worst case.
Interior cameras with motion activation can capture break-ins if power is available.
Photograph serial numbers and unique mods like solar panels or aftermarket gear.
Keep receipts or appraisals for high-value add-ons.

The more you document, the stronger your insurance claim if needed, and the easier recovery becomes.

Local Ordinances, HOA Rules, and Permits

Even in private driveways, camper storage often comes with rules.

Check local regulations on RV parking, required screening, or seasonal use.
Read HOA bylaws for restrictions on size, visibility, and cover types.
Apply for any required permits ahead of time if storing on residential property.
Keep approval letters or confirmations on hand in case of disputes or inspections.

A little upfront compliance ensures your storage plan runs smoothly, without surprise fines or warning notices.

Monthly Check-In Routine Through Winter

A quick monthly visit prevents small issues from becoming big ones. Bring a basic toolkit, gloves, and your checklist. Work from outside to inside and note anything that has changed. Take photos if you adjust level or move supports. Consistency makes spring recommissioning smooth.

Battery Status, Moisture Checks, and Tire Pressure

A few five-minute checks can prevent battery failure, mold, or tire damage.

Check battery voltage using a voltmeter or your tender’s display. Confirm the charger/maintainer is working and terminals are tight.
Walk the interior and sniff for musty odors. Look for condensation on windows, walls, or ceiling vents.
Touch tires to confirm firmness. Cold weather lowers pressure, top up to your manufacturer’s winter storage spec.
Spin each wheel a few degrees (if safe) to reduce flat spotting on the contact patch.

These small adjustments reduce the risk of power loss, mildew, or early tire failure over a long off-season.

Snow Load Removal and Roof/Vent Inspections

Heavy snow strains your roof, seals, and vents, and can block airflow if left unchecked.

Use a roof rake with a soft head and extension pole to remove snow gently from your camper’s roof.
Clear around rooftop equipment like A/C units, skylights, and plumbing vents.
Inspect gutters or drip edges for ice dams that hold meltwater and increase leak risk.
Stay grounded. Never step on an icy roof. Use a ladder only if you can do so safely on dry, level ground.

Preventing ice buildup reduces water intrusion and protects your roof membrane from cracks.

Running the Generator and Moving the Camper Slightly

Exercising mechanical components keeps them reliable and easier to restart in spring.

Start the generator once a month. Let it run 15–20 minutes under light load to lubricate parts and burn off moisture.
Move the camper a few feet forward or backward (if possible) to vary tire pressure points.
Re-chock wheels and confirm stabilizers are secure after movement.

Even minor rotation helps reduce tire stress and keeps mechanical systems from seizing up over time.

De-Winterizing and Spring Recommissioning

When temperatures rise, reverse your winter steps with care. Plan a day to flush lines, test systems, and drive a short loop. Bring fresh filters and fluids you plan to change. Keep notes so you repeat what works next year. A calm, thorough process sets up a great first trip.

Flush Antifreeze, Sanitize Lines, and Appliance Checks

Get your water system fresh and safe for the season:

Open all low-point drains and let old RV antifreeze run out.
Pump fresh water through lines until clear, then sanitize using an RV-safe bleach or chlorine solution.
Flush thoroughly before drinking or cooking with the water.
Check the pump and toilet for leaks or stuck valves. Open and close faucets to ensure pressure balance.
Test fridge, stove, and heater using shore power and propane if needed. Make sure pilot lights and igniters are working.

You’ll catch most plumbing or appliance issues now, when it’s easier to fix them.

Re-seal Inspection, Tire Service, and Road Test

Before your first trip, confirm that everything rolls safely and seals up tight.

Inspect the exterior, touch up silicone or lap sealant around vents, skylights, and side trim as needed.
Set proper tire pressure for travel (not storage) and look for uneven wear, bulges, or cracks.
Torque all lug nuts to factory spec using a torque wrench.
Do a short road test, listen for squeaks or pulling, and check the brakes and steering feel.
Update your maintenance log with everything you’ve done, this helps track wear over time.

You’ll start the season confident that your rig is roadworthy.

Use this handy checklist to stay organized during spring recommissioning:

Task	Description
Inspect Seals	Check and re-seal doors, windows, and roof joints
Service Tires	Set pressure, inspect wear, rotate if needed
Check Appliances	Verify fridge, stove, heater, and pump
Sanitize Water Lines	Flush antifreeze and sanitize system
Road Test	Drive and confirm handling and braking

Common Mistakes To Avoid When Storing Your Camper

Even well-meaning RV owners can make storage mistakes that lead to expensive repairs or lost time in spring. The most common problems usually come down to skipping steps, rushing prep, or storing in poor conditions. While proper preparation protects your rig, avoiding mistakes also helps control the overall cost of camper storage, which can rise quickly due to preventable damage.

Skipping Full Winterization

Leaving even small amounts of water in pipes, faucets, or holding tanks can lead to freezing and cracks.
A burst fitting in the water pump or a split PEX line can cause leaks that stay hidden until your next trip.
Always follow a complete winterization process that drains all water systems and pushes antifreeze to every fixture.

Storing on Soft or Unleveled Ground

Parking on grass, dirt, or gravel can cause the camper to sink or tilt as the ground freezes and thaws.
An unlevel rig can twist the frame, misalign doors, and cause pooling on the roof.
Use leveling blocks or a solid pad and double-check level front-to-back and side-to-side before you walk away.

Leaving Food, Toiletries, or Scents Inside

Even small crumbs or scented items (like soap or candles) can attract rodents and insects.
Mice can chew through wiring, insulation, and cushions to build nests inside your camper.
Remove all perishables and use airtight storage bins for anything that stays.

Misusing Stabilizers or Jacking the Camper Incorrectly

Stabilizers are designed to reduce rocking, not to support the full weight of the camper.
Using them as lifts can damage mounting points or twist the frame.
If you’re offloading weight from the tires, use proper jack stands rated for your chassis and placed on solid ground.

Not Checking the Camper During Storage

Months of silence can hide growing problems like flat tires, low batteries, or roof leaks.
A 15-minute monthly check can save hundreds of dollars and hours of repairs.
Build a checklist and stick to a routine, even in bad weather.

Conclusion: A Proven Plan to Store Your Camper Safely

Storing your camper through the winter requires more than just parking and walking away. It’s about taking the time to clean thoroughly, seal the shell from moisture, winterize the plumbing system, protect batteries and electronics, and ensure your rig is level and stable on a firm surface. Each of these steps plays a role in preventing damage and reducing the risk of costly repairs once the cold season passes.

Just as important is what happens during the off-season. Monthly check-ins let you spot small problems early, whether it’s a flat tire, snow buildup, moisture inside, or a battery issue. These short visits make a big difference when it comes time to de-winterize and get back on the road.

If you’re looking for a safe and reliable place to keep your camper, RecNation offers secure outdoor, covered, and fully enclosed camper storage facilities across the country. Whether you need affordable open space or the protection of a climate-controlled unit, our facilities are built to help your rig stay ready for next season.

FAQ

What is the best way to store a camper for the winter?

Store in a secure indoor, covered, or well-prepped outdoor space and follow a full winterization checklist. A clean, sealed, level rig with battery care and moisture control handles winter well.

Should I use a cover on my camper during winter storage?

Yes, a fitted breathable cover helps, but choose based on your climate and vent it correctly. Covers reduce UV and debris while allowing moisture to escape.

How do I winterize my camper’s water and plumbing systems?

Drain tanks, bypass the water heater, and pump RV antifreeze through all lines and traps. Do not use automotive antifreeze and label the system for spring.

What should I do with my camper’s batteries during winter storage?

Fully charge, disconnect, or maintain with a smart tender in a cool, dry place. Clean terminals and check water levels in flooded batteries.

How often should I check on my camper during winter storage?

Visit monthly to verify battery status, tire pressure, and moisture control. Remove snow loads and inspect roof vents and seals.

Can I store my camper outdoors, or do I need indoor storage?

Outdoor storage works with good prep, while indoor storage adds protection in harsh climates. Covered storage offers a useful middle ground for many owners.

How do I prevent pests from entering my camper during storage?

Seal entry points, remove food, and place safe deterrents or traps. Screens and mesh on vents keep rodents out while allowing airflow.

What maintenance tasks should I perform before winter storage?

Deep clean, fix seals, winterize plumbing, protect tires, and secure power. Record your steps and take photos for easy spring setup.

How do I de-winterize my camper when I’m ready to use it again?

Flush antifreeze, sanitize lines, test appliances, inspect seals, and road test. Update your maintenance log to track what you serviced.